Tag Archives: Society 1854

Variety of Society

September 26, 2019 by
Photography by Bill Sitzmann

Hotel restaurants often get a bad rap. Some see them as a last resort, a place with high prices and uninspired food. But many hotel chains across the country are upping their culinary game and creating onsite, full-service eateries that boast creative menus, modern and inviting surroundings, and talented chefs running the kitchens.

On a dinner visit in late August, my dining partner and I both were pleasantly surprised by some of the food at Society 1854, the in-house restaurant at the Omaha Marriott Downtown Hotel in the Capitol District at 10th Street and Capitol Avenue. Opened in 2017 and named for the year Omaha was founded, Society 1854 offers approachable, regionally inspired fare with fine dining touches and attention to details.

The menu changes seasonally, but maintains several staples. There’s a decisive focus on using what’s fresh and local, says Wil Witters, assistant restaurant manager. The kitchen sources ingredients from area farms and suppliers, including Imperial Wagyu Beef, Truebridge Foods, Plum Creek Farms, TD Niche Pork, and Squeaky Green Organics, among others.

Blue Valley trout with accompaniments

Blue Valley trout with tomatoes, daikon radishes, and snap peas with a creme fraiche sauce and anise hyssop.

The concise but varied menu is divided into snacks, shared plates, salads and soups, and main plates. There are vegetarian options, as well as comfort food dishes such as fried chicken sandwiches, burgers, and wings.

The restaurant’s burger features a hefty patty crafted with domestic Wagyu beef that’s tender and flavorful. Served with French fries and a pickle spear, it’s topped with bacon jam, iceberg lettuce, pickled onion, and melted cheese on a brioche bun. Although I’m not an iceberg fan, it was crisp and added a crunchy element to the dish, which arrived perfectly cooked to medium as ordered.

Steak, chicken, pasta, and seafood are also on the menu. My dining partner liked his Faroe Island salmon entree but thought it was salted a tad too much. Served with roasted fennel, radish, and spaetzle, the salmon was flaky and moist, but the dish needed a sauce to tie everything together.

A starter of fried Brussels sprouts — the outer leaves pleasingly charred and the insides crisp-tender—had robust flavors and textural variety thanks to sweet, crunchy bits of cashew praline, and a drizzle of creamy mayo flavored with fish sauce, a southeast Asian condiment.

Crab hush puppies are enhanced by pickled ramps and Old Bay aioli. Each hot and crispy hush puppy featured a golden brown exterior and pillowy middle, but we didn’t get much crab flavor from the deep-fried fritters.

Of the items we tried, our favorite was the chilled cantaloupe soup (featured image), a seasonal offering that put the sweet, summery melon front and center. Poured tableside for an elegant presentation, the colorful soup featured compressed cantaloupe, sorbet, fresh basil, and just a hint of black pepper. Light, refreshing, and not too sweet, the luscious soup was a wonderful balance of fruity, tangy, and herbal flavors. 

A well-edited beverage list features an array of fine wines, local brews, and craft cocktails prepared by the adjacent bar, Burdock + Bitters. The restaurant’s culinary team includes chef de cuisine John Engler, whose fine dining background includes the Grey Plume, and sous chef Chris Furse. Despite some awkward service and mistimed food, our server was friendly and helpful with recommendations.

Society 1854 not only draws hotel guests but non-guests, as well. “We’re very quickly building up local followers,” Witters says. The restaurant’s proximity to several entertainment venues, including the CHI Health Center and Holland Performing Arts Center, makes it a popular spot for dinner and drinks before or after a show. Visitors can also enjoy private dinners, tasting menus for groups, wine pairings, special holiday menus, and more.

Guests staying at the Omaha Marriott Downtown can choose from dozens of delicious dining options within easy walking distance, including the one right downstairs from their hotel room.

Visit society1854.com for more information.

This article was printed in the October 2019 edition of Omaha Magazine. To receive the magazine, click here to subscribe.

Local Farm-to-Table

August 3, 2018 by
Photography by Bill Sitzmann

Nick Strawhecker reaches down and opens the oven. There are two whole, cooked chickens resting on the platter within the large industrial appliance. One chicken looks well proportioned, intact, and almost seems to sit rigid as though something was placed inside it to offer structural integrity. It looks delicious, succulent. The other chicken is striking also, but in a very different way. It is of a similar size, but the breast is massive, unnaturally so. The legs are tiny by comparison. Its skin looks like a popped water balloon. This chicken sits in a thick deposit of cloudy, watery juices. It is splayed on the platter, floppy—its spine is broken. This chicken’s liver, compared to the other, looks as though it spent its short life drinking hard liquor in lieu of water. The heavenly, intact chicken was among the living just days ago. It was raised on a cage-free farm near Pawnee City, Nebraska. Where was the other chicken from? Unknown.

Though the difference in quality is obvious on many levels (for example one is pumped with antibiotics and water to add weight and size, while the other is simply a natural chicken) even industry professionals from the free-range, farm-to-table side will admit both types of chicken have their place in the overall food economy. Dean Dvorak, who operates a family poultry business in southeast Nebraska called Plum Creek Farms, says he has never complained about the existence of large companies when it comes to chicken production. 

“The big companies are certainly necessary,” Dvorak says. “People in our country eat a lot of chicken and small producers can’t produce nearly enough to keep up with the demand.”

The price point of some menus just do not fit what small producers can supply, Dvorak says. This adds to the “niche” culture surrounding local, farm-to-table food production. It takes a specific client base willing to invest in high-quality foods.  

“Our efficiency is much poorer than a larger company’s,” Dvorak says of his higher prices. “We lose more chickens to predators, and our pound of feed per pound of gain [the measure of how much chicken a farmer produces per pound of feed] is much poorer because our birds get a lot of exercise by not being kept in a small space.” 

Serving a lower price point is a major faculty of the industrialized farming sector. The USDA reports organic food made up just 4 percent of U.S. food sales in 2012. This means there is a point for consumers where cost simply overrides the level of quality in a more expensive product. Many are not willing to ante up for the good stuff. Additionally, organic food is not yet available on the same scale as the alternative.

Local restaurateur Nick Strawhecker is an advocate of the farm-to-table supply chain. He owns and operates Dante (in West Omaha) and Dante Pizzeria Napoletana (in Blackstone District).

“The way most of the world works is cooking what is around you,” Strawhecker says. “After big agriculture in the United States in the ’50s, all of the sudden strawberries came available in December, or tomatoes came available in January…I think that kind of food is not at all the same, and it does not taste good.”

Strawhecker prefers to cook with food from within 100 miles of his locations and builds his menus on what he calls “hyper-seasonality.” This means an item like asparagus isn’t offered from his kitchen until it is in season, and he compromises this only on things that are absolutely essential as year-round ingredients.

Locally sourced food is healthy for consumers and for the local economy, says Ben Gotschall of Lone Tree Foods (a local food distribution company). He says when you support local food you are essentially supporting local businesses. 

“It puts money back into the local economy,” Gotschall says. “A locally owned business whose suppliers are also local keeps the money from leaving the area.”

Gotschall raises cattle and sells milk to people like Katie Justman, a cheese producer (at Branched Oak Dairy) who works solely with Gotschall’s grass-fed cows for her product. Gotschall also sells milk, cream, butter, and cheese wholesale through Lone Tree and on the site of Branched Oak Farm (located just north of Lincoln) through his company, Davey Road Ranch.

Justman cares very much about the environmental benefits of working with local, farm-raised product, but she says the environmental benefits are not her leading point when talking about why she focuses on farm-to-table food—instead, much like Gotschall, she talks more about the economic benefits.

“A lot of us go with the economics route when describing our philosophy because it is a lot more relatable to talk to people about it in that way,” Justman says. “It is technically less controversial, even though the sustainability aspects are very important to us and we [Branched Oak Farms] are 100 percent grass-fed and organic certified.”

Not everyone using farm-to-table ingredients does it as part of a movement. Jeanne Ohira is the co-owner of Ted and Wally’s Ice Cream. Ohira says when she and her brother, Joe, bought the company in 2000, using local ingredients was just the natural (no pun intended) thing to do.

“That’s just how we were raised,” Ohira says. “My dad was from a farming family. My mom was part of a co-op and we grew up driving way out to pick up different food. As a business, we didn’t really think about it [in terms of participating in a movement] because at the time it wasn’t much of a trend yet.”

The trend has found a welcome reception among Omaha’s high-end culinary scene, with farm-to-table fare on the menus of Kitchen Table, Au Courant, Baela Rose, Le Bouillon, Block 16, Stirnella, Mark’s Bistro, The Boiler Room, The Grey Plume, Society 1854, J. Coco, and Over Easy (among others).

Strawhecker’s Dante and Dante Pizzeria Napoletana demonstrate the local supply chain in practical application. Gotschall raises cows and sells their milk; Justman purchases the milk for her creamery and produces cheeses—including mozzarella—which Strawhecker uses in his gourmet pizzas. Strawhecker is one of Justman’s biggest customers of cheese. He’s also a major buyer of chickens from Plum Creek Farms and a buyer of other local farmers’ products.

But Dante is only one example of this bullish moo-moo-movement. Omaha’s urban place in the heart of Midwestern farm country has helped raise the city’s profile as one of America’s top destinations for farm-to-table cuisine.

This article was printed in the July/August 2018 edition of Omaha Magazine.