Veteran Omaha restaurateur and chef Malcolm (Mac) Thompson opened Taxi’s in 2002 with the late Bill Johnette after their successful run at the much-celebrated Neon Goose. Over the years Taxis’s has also enjoyed considerable achievement and now Mac’s godson, Chase Thomsen, has taken over as Executive Chef. I had not been to Taxi’s for a while, so I decided to make a trip over there and see what’s cooking.
From the outside Taxi’s is not overly impressive, just another Omaha strip mall restaurant. Once inside it becomes obvious that great care is taken to keep this restaurant in top condition with a comfortable, casual, friendly, neighborhood vibe. All of the artwork, tables, chairs, serviceware, and other furnishings are above average quality and look much newer than the dozen years the restaurant has been open. The restrooms are also very impressive and clean. It may sound a little strange to a lay reader, but foodies know you can tell a lot about a restaurant and its operators by the condition of the restrooms.
Now for the best part of Taxi’s…the food! While many of the dishes on the menu spark memories from past dinners at Taxi’s, Chef Chase’s influence on the menu can be seen with several new dishes and some really creative specials. The wine list is well curated. Not too big. Not too small. There are some real gems on that list, and since I was in on Wednesday, all bottles were half price!
I went with the Troublemaker Blend from Paso Robles, Calif. ($20). It was excellent and went pretty well with everything I tried. They also have a full bar and nice beer selections. The service at Taxi’s has always been top-notch, and this visit was no exception.
My dining partner and I started off with the Waffle Fries ($8) and the Dijon Shrimp ($10). The Waffle Fries are basically a creative take on a poutine with a creamy chipotle sauce and melted Gorgonzola cheese. I can sum this one up in one word. Yum! The Dijon Shrimp is served escargot-style in a rich garlic butter topped with bubbling cheese and a crusty French baguette to sop up the butter.
I love this dish because it gives people a chance to see how divine a traditional escargot tastes without having to eat snails in the process, which is a put-off for many people.
I couldn’t have a meal at Taxi’s without having some of their Cabbage and Blue Cheese Soup ($4). This dish never ceases to amaze me. For an entrée, I tried one of the three specials in ordering Bacon-Wrapped Shrimp ($22). These large, grilled shrimp were stuffed with a sliver of jalapeno and wrapped with thick, crispy bacon before being served over Spanish-style rice and topped with a fresh mango salsa.
It was a fantastic combination.
My dining partner went the more traditional route and ordered the Beef Pot Roast ($16) off the menu. This is covered in a rich gravy and is served with Yukon Gold mashed potatoes, sauteed zucchini, carrots, and squash. This could very well be the best pot roast in Omaha. For dessert we sampled the Wild Berry Cobbler ($6). This scratch-made cobbler was served à la mode and was the perfect ending to another stellar meal at Taxi’s.
Many years ago when I was new in town someone told me that Taxi’s is the best neighborhood restaurant in Omaha. That’s a pretty tall order, but in my experience there is a lot of truth to that statement.
Go give it a try and see for yourself! Cheers!