Tag Archives: Stirnella

Local Farm-to-Table

August 3, 2018 by
Photography by Bill Sitzmann

Nick Strawhecker reaches down and opens the oven. There are two whole, cooked chickens resting on the platter within the large industrial appliance. One chicken looks well proportioned, intact, and almost seems to sit rigid as though something was placed inside it to offer structural integrity. It looks delicious, succulent. The other chicken is striking also, but in a very different way. It is of a similar size, but the breast is massive, unnaturally so. The legs are tiny by comparison. Its skin looks like a popped water balloon. This chicken sits in a thick deposit of cloudy, watery juices. It is splayed on the platter, floppy—its spine is broken. This chicken’s liver, compared to the other, looks as though it spent its short life drinking hard liquor in lieu of water. The heavenly, intact chicken was among the living just days ago. It was raised on a cage-free farm near Pawnee City, Nebraska. Where was the other chicken from? Unknown.

Though the difference in quality is obvious on many levels (for example one is pumped with antibiotics and water to add weight and size, while the other is simply a natural chicken) even industry professionals from the free-range, farm-to-table side will admit both types of chicken have their place in the overall food economy. Dean Dvorak, who operates a family poultry business in southeast Nebraska called Plum Creek Farms, says he has never complained about the existence of large companies when it comes to chicken production. 

“The big companies are certainly necessary,” Dvorak says. “People in our country eat a lot of chicken and small producers can’t produce nearly enough to keep up with the demand.”

The price point of some menus just do not fit what small producers can supply, Dvorak says. This adds to the “niche” culture surrounding local, farm-to-table food production. It takes a specific client base willing to invest in high-quality foods.  

“Our efficiency is much poorer than a larger company’s,” Dvorak says of his higher prices. “We lose more chickens to predators, and our pound of feed per pound of gain [the measure of how much chicken a farmer produces per pound of feed] is much poorer because our birds get a lot of exercise by not being kept in a small space.” 

Serving a lower price point is a major faculty of the industrialized farming sector. The USDA reports organic food made up just 4 percent of U.S. food sales in 2012. This means there is a point for consumers where cost simply overrides the level of quality in a more expensive product. Many are not willing to ante up for the good stuff. Additionally, organic food is not yet available on the same scale as the alternative.

Local restaurateur Nick Strawhecker is an advocate of the farm-to-table supply chain. He owns and operates Dante (in West Omaha) and Dante Pizzeria Napoletana (in Blackstone District).

“The way most of the world works is cooking what is around you,” Strawhecker says. “After big agriculture in the United States in the ’50s, all of the sudden strawberries came available in December, or tomatoes came available in January…I think that kind of food is not at all the same, and it does not taste good.”

Strawhecker prefers to cook with food from within 100 miles of his locations and builds his menus on what he calls “hyper-seasonality.” This means an item like asparagus isn’t offered from his kitchen until it is in season, and he compromises this only on things that are absolutely essential as year-round ingredients.

Locally sourced food is healthy for consumers and for the local economy, says Ben Gotschall of Lone Tree Foods (a local food distribution company). He says when you support local food you are essentially supporting local businesses. 

“It puts money back into the local economy,” Gotschall says. “A locally owned business whose suppliers are also local keeps the money from leaving the area.”

Gotschall raises cattle and sells milk to people like Katie Justman, a cheese producer (at Branched Oak Dairy) who works solely with Gotschall’s grass-fed cows for her product. Gotschall also sells milk, cream, butter, and cheese wholesale through Lone Tree and on the site of Branched Oak Farm (located just north of Lincoln) through his company, Davey Road Ranch.

Justman cares very much about the environmental benefits of working with local, farm-raised product, but she says the environmental benefits are not her leading point when talking about why she focuses on farm-to-table food—instead, much like Gotschall, she talks more about the economic benefits.

“A lot of us go with the economics route when describing our philosophy because it is a lot more relatable to talk to people about it in that way,” Justman says. “It is technically less controversial, even though the sustainability aspects are very important to us and we [Branched Oak Farms] are 100 percent grass-fed and organic certified.”

Not everyone using farm-to-table ingredients does it as part of a movement. Jeanne Ohira is the co-owner of Ted and Wally’s Ice Cream. Ohira says when she and her brother, Joe, bought the company in 2000, using local ingredients was just the natural (no pun intended) thing to do.

“That’s just how we were raised,” Ohira says. “My dad was from a farming family. My mom was part of a co-op and we grew up driving way out to pick up different food. As a business, we didn’t really think about it [in terms of participating in a movement] because at the time it wasn’t much of a trend yet.”

The trend has found a welcome reception among Omaha’s high-end culinary scene, with farm-to-table fare on the menus of Kitchen Table, Au Courant, Baela Rose, Le Bouillon, Block 16, Stirnella, Mark’s Bistro, The Boiler Room, The Grey Plume, Society 1854, J. Coco, and Over Easy (among others).

Strawhecker’s Dante and Dante Pizzeria Napoletana demonstrate the local supply chain in practical application. Gotschall raises cows and sells their milk; Justman purchases the milk for her creamery and produces cheeses—including mozzarella—which Strawhecker uses in his gourmet pizzas. Strawhecker is one of Justman’s biggest customers of cheese. He’s also a major buyer of chickens from Plum Creek Farms and a buyer of other local farmers’ products.

But Dante is only one example of this bullish moo-moo-movement. Omaha’s urban place in the heart of Midwestern farm country has helped raise the city’s profile as one of America’s top destinations for farm-to-table cuisine.


This article was printed in the July/August 2018 edition of Omaha Magazine. 

Celebrate Earth, Life, and Imagination

April 19, 2018 by

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Pick of the Week—Saturday, April 21: Join the rest of the world this Saturday in celebrating our Mother Earth at Earth Day Omaha 2018 in Elmwood Park. There will be plenty going on to entertain all, from kiddos to doggos. Bring a picnic or some cash for the many local food vendors who will be on hand. Don’t miss the main stage, featuring candidate forums, National Geographic photographer Joel Sartore, the Friend of the Environment Awards, and live music, including a performance by Edem Soul Music (featured in our next issue of Encounter). This event is happening rain or shine, so get out and celebrate all that is green. Click here for all the info.

Thursday, April 19: Debating whether you want to stay home and cook and splurge and go out to eat tonight? We’re going to make it easy for you. Tonight only, Stirnella in the Blackstone District is donating 50 percent of their food sales to the Women’s Center for Advancement. The center recently relocated and is now just one block away from the restaurant. So get out and help the staff at Stirnella welcome the WCA to the neighborhood. Be sure to call ahead and make reservations here for A Night Out at Stirnella. To learn more about the center, go here.

Friday, April 20: Experience one of the most unique live performances around with Lightwire Theater as they present Moon Mouse: A Space Odyssey at The Arts Center at IWCC. Join Marvin the Mouse as he escapes life’s everyday bummers by retreating into his science books and a world of fantasy. Watch the story come to life through electroluminescent artistry and sweet dance moves. Get your tickets here, and learn more about Lightwire Theater here.

Saturday, April 21 and Sunday, April 22: It’s market season! Head to 10th and Bancroft streets for the Handmade Omaha Spring Art & Craft Bazaar at the Bancroft Street Market. With more than 25 local vendors, free parking, and free admission, this is a must-attend event. It’s their sixth year, so get out and help keep it going. For a full list of vendors, go here. For other Bancroft Street Market events, go here.

Sunday, April 22: Join the YMCA’s national initiative to improve the health and well-being of children and families this Sunday. Healthy Kids Day at Stinson Park in Aksarben Village encourages a healthy, safe lifestyle. Activities and learning opportunities include bounce houses and safety checks. This free event starts at 11 a.m. and goes until 2 p.m. No registration is required. Just show up and have fun while learning! To find out more, bounce on over here.

Special Addition Edition—Wednesday, April 25th: The Omaha Police Foundation has their 18th annual Officer of the Year Awards Luncheon next Wednesday, the 25th, at the Scott Conference Center. Twenty-five OPD officers will be recognized for their outstanding service, and the 2017 Officer of the Year will be chosen from among the honorees. This event is open to the public and will feature an outdoor exhibit of various law enforcement units and vehicles. Show your support and get your tickets here now.